There is little doubt who the target market is – China’s newly minted – the moment you set foot in the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong. The hotel, and the restaurant itself, looks like a giant disco ball exploded and covered every surface. Spirals of shiny metal, mirrors, glass beads and more dangle from ceilings and hang off walls. At night, a LED catwalk leads diners to Tosca and there is not one, but two fountains made of crystal and marble in the dining room. What saves such gaudiness, however, is the triple-height, floor to ceiling windows that provide a grand panorama of Hong Kong from 102 storeys up. Not surprisingly, window tables are booked well in advance, though the open kitchen in the middle of the restaurant also provides entertainment.
The kitchen, under the guidance of chef Pino Lavarra, shows greater restraint and focus than the décor.